ashion has always had a weakness or the bright red. Red which is isible rom a ar. As a errari car or a ire truck. This color is ound in all parades o the 2010-2011 Winter and, in Paris, the good market celebrated it or se eral weeks in the ashion industry. Attention: it is more question to the alentino or the Lacroix. The irst, or which Red meant "danger, orbidden, or burning lips" liked to the decline in e ening dresses. Dresses o a ormidable or playing the emme atale sexiest night. Christian Lacroix lo ed him, red baroque and theatrical: it was used or o boleros o luxurious Bull ighter son o gold rebrodé el et coats o Chinese Emperors or extra agant skirts "historicisantes."
The red, seen on the catwalks o the 2010-2011 Winter returns to these two worlds. Barely a ew lashbacks here and there. In Pucci, Peter Dundas is not resistant to apour and grasped dress who lies to the slightest breath o air. or its part, & Dolce Gabbana can hardly make the impasse on the blood-red satin dress as is his trademark. But the Italian duo pre ers mitigating e idence by superimposing a Black Lace: it looks almost like a printed. It is barely i there are still the color.
Today, Dressmakers and designers re-interpret the Red drawing their re erences in some other uni erse, ery distant rom each other. "It is not only the preser e o the red carpets and theatre, women bad li e and Chinese Emperors." "It is one o the most rich symbols colors", notes Oli ier Guillemin, President o the rench Committee o the color. or Kenzo, Maison Martin Margiela, Isabel Marant, or Ann Demeulemeester, red is also linked to Britain, to the punk attitude, the lumberjack shirt or contemporary art. "As many re erences that will help change its image and reconcile women with", says Muriel Piaser Director o the Paris ready-to-wear shows. And E a Heller reminds us in his book psychology o colour (Pyramyd Editions): "Less than 20 o women consider their a orite color."
Their jeans and their leather leggings, Isabel Marant and Christophe Decarnin or Balmain choose English red, the same as telephone booths and bus. These pieces are tints then immediately a punk spirit and become highly desirable. Cannot pass the winter without them. Copied by all large chains o ready-to-wear as Zara, they are easily with a per ecto in black leather, with Con erse green or e en a jacket grey tailor. Here they are erect in base o the season. Or almost. "The success o this color should continue, analysis Oli ier Guillemin. Associated with the re olution, it is completely in phase with our protest irm.
To wake up all too sad beiges lines, some designers ha e ound that red was ideal. They extract it tiles seen on major pleas and lumberjack shirts. In Wunderkind, Wol gang Joop pro ides its tailors and its colour poppy asteners made o natural leather and beige jingle dresses. Its detail ery cowboy, big cow boots, irretrie ably turns the image o the red. Karl Lager eld at Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela grow them, daring to marry this color with beige o the ur. A borderline association reser ed or the initiated.
Ideal red proposed by Riccardo Tisci at Gi enchy, is inspired by the spirit o the Bauhaus. Primary, without nuance and without arti ice, it o ers graphic endless possibilities. Riccardo Tisci uses it by judiciously placed keys: a turtleneck abo e with a white mantle, a shi ted black dress lining that appears to the slightest mo ement, a jacket that encloses a ground. At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni adopts, also doing arty by inserting a red coat ery architected in a multicolor publication. These silhouettes appear then as abstract paintings. O contemporary art.
or etishists o black, red seems to be the only possible color. DSquared2 or Ann Demeulemeester the deal in keys with accessories. Glo es, bags, shoes. In the Belgian designer, it is only them, because the completely dark silhouettes argue on an extremely dark catwalk. They are trans ormed into light signal to draw attention to a cut or a collar made o eathers. Ann Demeulemeester also uses this color as a luorescent highlighter: a red Stabilo blow on the rounding o the jacket or the edges o the male est and that its scholarly monochrome o erlays are highlighted. O what become red crazy o this color.