Jewellery is the nostalgia o the se enties. New horizons cra ings: Kathmandu, Ibiza, Goa... Some desires also colors and olklore. The collection o Carole Guez seems directly out o a jewellery box o thirty years ago. The large medallions as lowers or stylized Indian rosettes hang on ery long chains that click. Headlines, these ery wide bracelets, to illuminate happily under psychedelic mixture o stone: purple amethyst, quartz pink, coral, diamond and turquoises. Under the in luence o Indian jewellery, some gems are simply polished rather than bore. Lydia Courteille imagine, she, Creole in yellow gold with citrines Jingle and the Artic. Those created by Diane on urstenberg to the jeweler H.Stern, a Lo e Knot, this Tibetan talisman symbolizing eternal lo e. All jewellery that ha e pleased then the jet - set. But to the dummy Talitha Getty, icon o the 1970s which posed be ore his pool o Marrakech, equipped o jewels B lgari and the Saltire in oeil-de-tigre o an Clee & Arpels. Another designer to claim the 1970s ictoria Casal. But in a completely di erent style. Surprise, it declined in Sharm's, earrings and pendant small cube resin gansé gold in which a diamond is trapped! At years lights o show o jewellery worn by ans o Pucci. "My mother did not lea e this pendant created by Pascal Morabito." "Thirty years a ter, it is part o my jewelry etish", says the designer. But what this small cube is so se enties It incorporates one o the principles o pop art. Namely, di ert an ordinary material or an object o daily to gi e a aluable dimension. It takes not more that the resin competes with gold or diamond. or Nicole Brémond, marketing in the luxury sector consulting, two names symbolize well this current: Gilles Jonemann, including the key wheel purchased at the BH is trans ormed into pendant precious when it is wrapped around a diamond, and Henri Gargat, creator o an ephemeral ring which circled the kitten in glass gold contains a drop o mercury. A jewel held worthy to enter the Gallery o jewellery rom the Decorati e Arts.
The best known o these designers is Jean Dinh an that will transcend the razor blade to make a gold pendant. The success is such that this jewel becomes worship and democratizes the style until then con idential.
Easier to wear jewellery UN
In 1976, the designer opens a shop rue Royale. Traditional jewellery concern to a... inish the precious jewellery worn by the bourgeois. It must be now less seeing and easier to wear daily, with a washed out jeans. The image o the key as Jane Birkin pendant is at the time on a long string o money. Another gem to symbolize this state o mind: Diamonds By The Yard created Elsa Peretti or Ti any House. A ine chain or punctuated by round diamonds that then sold per metre. It is e en one o anessa Paradis, singer in the tempo etish jewellery ery 1970.
Ti any & Co, typical o the 1970s
In these years, the amous American jeweller sells the butter lies in turquoise, amethyst and diamond pins created by Jean Schlumberger. Another must ha e creator: bracelets in gold and enamel so worn by the irst lady o United States that the press called "Jackie". But the House includes ery quickly that the precious jewel is changing. She appealed to Elsa Peretti, an Italian who creates more re ined models, o ten inspired by nature and easy to wear. All are still sold by the House: the Open Heart, a heart to the sensual lines; the Bean, pendant bean money enclosed in a net o silk; or the Bone bracelet, which ollows the cur e o the wrist. The minimalist pure.